Posted on Mon, Jun 28, 2010
Out of all the 20 Italian regions, the one that almost always misses mention in the wine books is the region of Lazio. (Lazio in Italian, but called Latium in English). It always surprises me too, because Lazio is one of the oldest wine making regions of Italy. And it happens to be famous for something else. It is home to the capital of Italy - ROME!
I guess every region has its specific claim to fame. Rome (and Lazio along with it), is extremely well known to tourists for its history, art, cuisine, architecture, archaeology, religion and cultural influence on Italy as a whole. And who goes to Italy without visiting Rome? It's like a European traveling to Florida and not visiting Disney World.
You could spend weeks in Rome, discovering every nook and cranny of Italian heritage, and probably not taste a wine from Lazio. Unless you are looking for one that is. You are more likely to see restaurant wine lists including wines from neighboring Tuscany (to the north), Umbria (to the northeast), Abruzzo (to the east), and Campania (to the south). It is not that Lazio doesn't make good wine. It is just that it is not as well-known internationally as some of Italy's other treasures.
The hills around Rome make some delicious white wines, the most popular of which is Frascati. Frascati is a simple, easy-drinking white that is made from the grapes malvasia and trebbiano. Not exactly everyday grapes around the world, but in Italy, they reign supreme.
However, one of my favorite "Lazio" whites is made a few miles further north of Rome, in a little town called Montefiascone. Say that five times fast...
The wine is called EST! EST!! EST!!! di Montefiascone. It is made from the same grapes as Frascati (malvasia and trebbiano), and there is actually a story that explains its catchy name. It goes something like this. In the year 1111, Henry V of England and company were on his way to see Pope Pascal II in Rome. Henry (as we know) was quite particular about his food and drink, so he sent a servant ahead to taste the wine en route, and report as to which Inns served the best. If the wine was worthy, the servant would write "EST" on the door of the Inn. "EST" means "This is it!" in Latin.
Apparently, the servant was quite impressed with the wine in Montefiascone. He wanted to convey to Henry how good the wine was compared to all of the other "EST's" along the way. So he wrote "EST! EST!! EST!!!" to make sure he caught his attention. And it did. The rest, the rest is ESTory. I mean history.
You can pick up a taste of this mouth-watering wine for a mere $9.99 a bottle. Yes - the winery Falesco makes an outstanding EST! EST!! EST!!! of Montefiascone that is fruity and floral, and a simply outstanding sipper for summer evenings. Try it with appetizers, vegetable dishes, pasta and seafood. After all, when in Rochester, but you WANT to be in Rome, then just do what the Romans would do
Posted on Wed, May 05, 2010
I have always been a fan of Italian wines. Not only can you find great values, but these wines are ultimately the best food wines you can buy. After all, an Italian winemaker MAKES wine to go with food. In Italy, to drink wine without food is the equivalent of murder!
For years, my Italian repertoire was limited to the white Pinot Grigio and the red Chianti. And between the two, there is a sea of good wine out there to choose from. But more recently, I have been searching to go off the beaten path to find some of Italian's best kept secrets, and I am happy to report that you can now find more and more of them appearing on American wine shelves today.
Italy's top three wine regions are considered to be Piedmont, Veneto and Tuscany. These regions are home to some of Italy's classiest and most sought-after wines. Piedmont lies in the northwestern corner of the country and stakes claim to the famous wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from the worshipped nebbiolo grape. Veneto, in the northeastern corner is best known for its red blends like Valpolicella and Amarone. And Tuscany, smack dab center of Italy, is the land of Chianti and Brunello, where the grape sangiovese is king. These are the wines that stud the Italian shelves across the country.
But Italy is home to over 1100 grapes! As hard as it is to believe, there are great quality wines being made in every one of Italy's 20 provinces. And the fun part is heading out into the countryside to taste them all.
First and foremost, the southern part of the country is HOT right now. Literally. Warmer climates, lots of sun, and strategically placed vineyards are cranking out some incredible stuff. Just like the cuisine, each province has its own specialties in wine.
Puglia (or Apulia in English) has intrigued me for years. Fondly referred to as "the heel of the Italian boot", Puglia has an incredible history of winemaking. Although they produce more wine than any other province, there are not as highly touted as the northern regions. For that reason, this is the place to find some hidden high quality wines at very reasonable prices.
The two big red grapes are negroamaro and primitivo. You'll find negroamaro in many of the blends from the sub-region of Salice Salento. The primitivo grape has been linked genetically to the red zinfandel grape of California.
Last night I opened a Natale Verga Primitivo 2008 ($10) with some friends. It was the epitome of a rustic, delicious Italian red. With flavors of dark cherries and chocolate, it was balanced with just the right amount of acidity to make your mouth water. Of course, it screamed for food, and food is what it got. A Mediterranean cheese platter and a bowl of freshly made hummus brought out the inherent earthiness of the Primitivo. Absolutely yummy and a great bargain!
Interestingly, we opened it next to a California Napa Valley Zinfandel, and it was amazing how different the two cousins were. The Zinfandel was more fruit-laden, concentrated and higher in alcohol, though delicious in its own right. It was unanimously decided that the Primitivo was much more food-friendly (not to mention wallet-friendly).
Tune in next time for more "Off The Beaten Path Italy".
Holly Howell
"UNCORKED!"
Posted on Tue, May 04, 2010
Please welcome Holly Howell as a guest writer for BACCHUS BARREL NOTES. 
As we have mentioned before it is our mission to provide you with both reviews, stories and information that makes wine and all things associated with wine fun and accessible, Holly shares our vision and is excited to participate with us and YOU, the reader.
Who is Holly?
Holly grew up in a food-loving family in Pittsford, New York. At eighteen, she spent a year in France learning to love wine and French cooking. After several years of study in Hotel and Restaurant Management, she operated a Cooking School in East Rochester, New York, where she coordinated and ran culinary programs with chefs from all over the world. She returned to school at the Rochester Institute of Technology, where she completed course work in Computer Programming and then graduated with a Bachelors of Science in Food Marketing. Since then, she has taught wine and food pairing classes for Wegmans Food Markets, several Finger Lakes Wineries, Rochester Institute of Technology, University of Rochester, the New York Wine & Culinary Center, and her parents own cooking school "The Seasonal Kitchen".
Holly is a member of the American Wine Society, Women for Winesense, and the American Institute of Wine and Food. She writes bi-weekly wine columns for the Rochester Democrat & Chronicle newspaper, and monthly articles for Mountain Home Magazine in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania. Holly is a CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine) through the Society of Wine Educators; a CS (Certified Sommelier) through the Master Court of Sommeliers in England; and is currently pursuing her diploma through the WSET (Wine and Spirits Education Trust). Holly is passionate about food and wine, and has an enthusiastic and fun approach to learning!
Cheers!
Dan Clifford
Twitter: @dclifford & @BacchusWine